Consumers’ growing
taste for nests made from swiftlet spittle gives ‘birdhouse’ a whole new
meaning, but could it mean lasting damage to Vietnam’s ecosystem? By Lien
Hoang. Photo by Lee Starnes.
After Uyen Vien injured his arm in a
2008 motorbike crash, he stemmed the lingering pain with a trusted remedy: the
saliva of birds.
Tropical
swiftlets use their spittle to build nests, and Vien used one of those nests to
make a medicinal soup.
“I had a bowl once a day, and after
a week, I felt better,” he says.
Seeing those effective results, he
decided to construct a house outside Ho Chi Minh City where the birds could
build their nests. By harvesting those nests and charging as much as $2,000 per
kilogram, many swiftlet ‘farmers’ across Vietnam can make a fortune. It’s part
of a larger trend around Asia, where consumers are becoming increasingly
wealthy and increasingly attracted to such luxuries as Birds Saliva Nest.
Birds Saliva Nest in Vietnam |
But could the growing demand hurt
the regional ecosystem?
Gathorne Cranbrook, co-author of the
2002 book Swiftlets of Borneo, says the domesticated birds (which live in
buildings) are “genetically different” from their wild cousins (which live in
caves). The birds can navigate in the dark and are very behaviour-driven, so
those born in houses will grow up to seek out similar places in which to build
their own nests.
As competition for food increases,
the farmed swiftlets risk shutting out the wild ones, as well as other
varieties of swifts whose slobbery secretions aren’t so coveted. In some ways
this is a zero-sum game because of the so-called “carrying capacity”, or the
maximum number of birds that the local environment can support.
“It is a disadvantage to the wild
birds,” Cranbrook, a leading expert on swiftlets, says in a telephone interview
from his home in England.
A
centuries-old trade
Birds Saliva Nest is not a new
delicacy in Asia. In the 16th century, and perhaps earlier, people were
spelunking across the region to feed the lively nest trade. Cranbrook says
Dutch merchants noticed this when they arrived at the time, especially in the
tropical climates where the swiftlets thrive.
Caving could be a deadly profession;
there are still reports to this day that people have fallen from ladders during
harvests. In Vietnam, much of the industry officially centres on Nha Trang.
But that has changed in recent
years, as skyrocketing demand pushed companies and individuals to set up
brick-and-mortar homes for the swiftlets. Some build small dwellings just for
the birds, while others simply add on attics to their existing homes to welcome
feathered tenants. The taste for Birds Saliva Nest especially saw a boom in the
1980s.
“It used to be for kings and the
rich,” says local trader Tran Anh Trong. “But now it’s popular.”
Shops that sell Birds Saliva Nest
(to yen) have exploded around Ho Chi Minh City to cater to domestic customers,
as well as those from Hong Kong, Singapore and China. Countries from Indonesia
to Malaysia breed swiftlets as well. Bloomberg reported in August that demand
is so great that it “is spawning a cottage industry that has attracted
investment from VinaCapital Group Ltd, the nation’s largest fund manager, and
helping mint new millionaires.”
Vietnamese who do buy the nests
often do so as gifts to elder relatives. People consume them after undergoing
surgery or giving birth. They’re believed to improve everything from digestion
and libido to asthma and aging. Their actual healing properties are up for
debate. Even Trong says it might just be in people’s heads.
“Psychology is very important,” he
says.
Some Vietnamese don’t seem to mind
whether the benefits can be proved, saying they feel better after drinking Birds
Saliva Nest, and that’s proof enough. Still, a VnExpress article in January cited
associate professor Ngo Dang Nghia as saying recent research suggests the
benefits are real.
He said the drooly concoction helps
generate cells so that ailing bodies recover more quickly, supports firm bone
development, keeps skin looking young, and strengthens the immune system
against viruses.
Unlike bear bile and rhino horn, Birds
Saliva Nests comprise a largely legal trade because they don’t seem to harm the
creatures involved.
But Jean-Francois Voisin, who
co-wrote The White Nest Swiftlet and the Black Nest Swiftlet, recommends wild
nests over farmed ones because they’re larger and more sustainable. He also
warns against the indiscriminate use of pesticides, which harm the insect
populations that feed swiftlets.
“Another problem with farm
swiftlet[s] could be genetic pollution,” Voisin writes by email. He explains
that interbreeding could result in a species that is less adaptive to nature,
less productive, and more susceptible to disease. More field research needs to
be done, but the Birds Saliva Nest industry is large enough to pose unintended
consequences that won’t be realised until decades down the line.
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